What is interfacing in sewing – here’s a beginner’s guide to interfacing that will make all your sewing projects easier. It’s an addition to how to add fusible interfacing tutorial from a while ago. Avoid beginner sewing mistakes and do it right – the first time!
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Together with my bag making tips post, these beginner sewing tips are all you need to know about what is interfacing in sewing: interfacing clarified, including the basic differences and interfacing types.
Interfacing is a great addition to a project when you need to make your fabric stiffer, more stable or to strengthen an area, and it also gives a sewing project some shape and body. After the quick sewing tip on how to apply interfacing from last month, here’s a short beginner’s guide to interfacing, to help you start off on the right foot – and answer any questions you might have with interfacings.
What Is Interfacing In Sewing – The Basics
Let me first cover a few basics, for those who are to do their first project with interfacing: interfacing will give your fabric additional stability needed for the optimal use of the product.
You’ll always apply interfacing to the back of the fabric before you start stitching. It will not be visible in the finalized product.
Interfacing will add stiffness to the fabric, and prevent the fabric from sagging. An important factor in bags – with few exceptions, you’ll want your bags to have body, stability and some stiffness.
As an example, let’s take a look at this simple, yet beautiful project tote:
The stability of the tote above totally depends on the interfacing used. What is more, the pattern even gives you 3 options for interfacing, and guides you so you can safely choose exactly what you need – and what you have at hand. (always good to have options, especially with interfacing!)
How To Choose The Right Interfacing?
TYPES Of Interfacing
There are tons of various types of interfacing, varying in weight, stiffness, materials used, and use. Interfacing can be
- woven (looks like fabric, though stiffened), or
- non-woven (compressed fibers, with one side covered with adhesive; the non-wovens often have a paper-like feel)
- knit (used when you need some stretch, mostly in garment sewing)
An interfacing material can be used alone on fabric, or in combination. To explain, let’s take a look at this bag:
This patternuses two types of interfacing, both non-woven and woven interfacing. These two combined give the tote just the right level of body and stability. Just what a good crossbody bag needs!
A tip on WOVEN interfacing though – watch out for the grainline, it needs to be taken into account when cutting! You don’t need to do that with non-woven one, but it’s not really that of a burden. I love either of those.
Iron-on Interfacing and Sew-in Interfacing
Considering the application, there are two types: fusible interfacing (iron-on) and non-fusible interfacing (sew-in). This was a major difference for me when I was starting out.
|Top:woven (decor-weight), bottom: fusible fleece, non-woven|
NON-FUSIBLE or FUSIBLE Interfacing?
There are basically two ways to apply interfacing, depending on the type: non-fusible interfacing. You need to sew it to the back of the fabric, hence also called sew in interfacing. The one I prefer (and you might too): fusible interfacing. The non-fusible is also called interlining.
When To Use NON-FUSIBLE INTERFACING?
Although it’s often a matter of personal preference and widely available, sew-in interfacing is not the first choice of many beginner sewers. It needs to be sewn together with the fabric, meaning it will take more of your time and you’ll need to work with several layers. But sometimes the non-fusible type will be the preferred, or even the only option. When?
- When your fabric is not suitable for ironing.
- When the fabric has a lot of structure, and
- Visual effect: when fusing would work against the desired visual effect of the finalized project. (eg when you want that fluffy feel of a project – like these round storage baskets.
What is fusible interfacing? Super simple: it irons on your fabric. It will only take you a few minutes to iron it onto the back side of the fabric. No pinning or basting – take a look at this quick how-to:
Interfacing vs Batting
Batting is always non-fusible, it’s a filler material used for making quilts. It CAN be used in place of interfacing, especially when you want to acchieve that squishy, soft feel of your project. Like this one:
This project uses batting. So squishy and super soft, and a perfect home storage!
Insulating Batting, Or Thermal Batting
When you sew something that will, say be used in the kitchen and will need to resist some heat – potholders, table pads, oven mitts, ironing board covers and the like, use one of the products that are also called insulating thermal batting/lining/wadding. One of the best-known brands of thermal batting is Insul Bright by the Warm Company. I use this one.
Insul-Bright is a needle-punched polyester insulating material. There is no right or wrong side to Insulbrite. You can use it either way shiny side or dull side out if you want. This product is not to be used in a microwave! See in the photo above, it has a thin metallic layer to reflect heat or cold – so please rmember – no mircovwave for items made with this specific batting product.
I’ll be writing more about it soon – pls just give it a week or so, till my next tutorial is live – it will have a lot to do with thermal batting 🙂
What weight Of Interfacing Should I Use?
Interfacings can range from lightweight through mid- and heavy-weight. As a rule of thumb, you always want your interfacing a bit lighter than the fabric, so choose accordingly.
Interfacing and bag making
Interfacing will add stiffness to the fabric, and prevent the fabric from sagging. It’s especially an important factor in bags – with few exceptions, you’ll want your bags to have body, stability and some stiffness. An exception to this would be slouchy hobo bags like this one I wrote about ages ago.
There are so many different ways to use interfacing in bags, and each one will end up in a different result. those super sturdy bags and zip-around wallets? The majority of those have Decovil at least in some part, or craft foam.
Smart interfacing hack: Want to make a bag feel stiff but don’t want the interfacing to show wrinkles from turning your bag right-side-out? Here’s an easy tip: fuse some light or even medium-weight interfacing to the fabric first, and only then apply a stiffer interfacing like Decor Bond or Decovil Light.
Want a good looking bag lining? Always use a layer of light-to-medium-weight interfacing like Pellon SF101 Shape Flex or Vilene G700. It always brings your bag to a higher level of quality.
Have no fusible interfacing at hand but would love to give your tote that extra body and weight? Use the (sew-in) sotton batting instead, and add a few simple quilting lines. I quilted the bigger of these two market bags. It turned out beautifully!
A List of popular Interfacing types and brands:
Here’s a short list of mostly fusible types of interfacing. Depending on what effect and level of stability you are after, one of these will suit your project:
- fusible fleece (gives body to the project) – my fav for easy crafts, sewing projects!) It will give a bit of a body and stability to a bag, and it’s perfect for my popular ZIP Pocket Coin Purse, as well as this crossbody bag and clutch
- examples of fusible fleece: Pellon 987F fusible fleece, Pellon fusible Thermolam is felted, dense and thicker than Pellon 987F; equivalents to these two are Vilene H640 (thicker) /H630 (thinner)
- thin, stiff medium-weight interfacing like Vilene S 320 – I love using Vilene 320 as flaps on bags, it makes them stable yet it does not crinkle, due to the perforations on the surface (magic!) – it’s close to Pellon Craft Fuse.
- something between light and medium-weight: Pellon Shape Flex 101 (all purpose medium weight, great for collars, cuffs, etc) – great to add to all lining pieces on a bag like my Enya Crossbody Wallet. Very close to another brand that’s popular in Europe and Australia: Vilene – look for Vilene G 700. And there’s a great less expensive alternative, Wovenfuse. Barb sells both Wovenfuse and Wovenfuse2, check it out here.
- Pellon Decor Bond (very rigid, great for placemats or other stiff pieces of home decor) – perfect for the outer layer of my TEYA crossbody bag
- totally light like Heat N Bond Lightweight (for blouses, apparel, thin, I rarely use it for home decor)
- soft non-woven, fluffy, like Heat’N’Bond medium weight. No stiffness!
- Very stiff, thin: Decovil Light (very close to Pellon 809 Decor Bond) Crinkles easily. But adding an extra layer of SF101 as base can save the day and prevent wrinkles!
SPECIAL Stabilizers For Bags
Sometimes, you’ll want your bag to stand up on its own, and to make it super stable, you might want to use a special stabilizer. I’m listing these separately (but if I’m honest, fusible fleece should be listed under stabilizers here, too)
- Decovil I – looks and feels like leather. It’s a thicker counterpart to Decovil light, but they are never interchangeable. Really strong stuff. Stay away from it for your first sewing projects 🙂 Once you get the hang of it – you’re a pro level!
- and then there’s flex foam, a great but totally different beast. Most popular brands include: Annie’s Soft’N’Stable, Vilene Style-Vil and PellonFlex Foam 77. I have been using the Pellon one, loved it. Check out my GLAM Girl Purse pattern if you want to give flex foam a try.
I love fusible foam. However, some bag makers will stay away from foam if it’s fusible, as it will sometimes cause wrinkles on the fabric if you’re using lightweight materials, say quilting cotton. If foam has wrinkles, try steaming the fabric from the front side, not touching it, but just holding the iron close to it and leaving out a lot of steam. It works great for me.
A different solution would be using a layer of SF1010 as a base and fusing foam only on that layer. This works with other types of stiff interfacing like Decor bond.
Not, by any means, an exhaustive list! There are many more, and I keep finding new materials and brands, and I’ll be adding to this list, so make sure to come back soon.
Don’t let this list intimidate you. Just so you know, you WILL find your favorite soon. Just start with general all-purpose interfacing, maybe even start with fusible fleece. Then later check out a few more when you get a chance, and you’ll see what you prefer. Never the same with two sewists!
|Left: very stiff, decor-weight woven interfacing. Right: fusible fleece.|
What interfacing to use for easy sewing PROJECTS?
If you’re mostly working on easy sewing projects, there’s high chance you’ll simply get away by using one type: fusible fleece. It’s feels like felt, with one adhesive side, and it will give your project some nice body. Several brands and thicknesses; start with one and then switch to a thicker, denser one like or go for a thinner one like
Not a pro advice, but rather one that will help you get on with your sewing asap and prevent that overwhelming feeling for when we face too many choices.
Need examples? I used fusible fleece in these crafting projects:
I used soft, fusible non-woven polyester interfacing here – it’s just a bit lighter than fusible fleece, and even more affordable. You’ll recognize it from far because it’s totally light and puffy and has tiny glue dots on one side.
Oh, and one more thing: take into account that depending on the continent you live on, some types of interfacing might be hard to find – like in this post on my Teya crossbody tote pattern, Caroline had issues to get fusible canvas stabilizer, but is very easy to find where I live. Check out how she used interlining instead!
And last but not least, a money-saver: here’s one little tip for you that might save the day when you are sitting at your sewing machine, making a project when you realize you’re running out of your interfacing, fusible felt, or batting:
And one thing more: never toss away any scraps of interfacing, interlining or anything even closely resembling batting! Why? You’ll use them on projects like these:
Now that you know what is interfacing in sewing, types of interfacing, as well as interfacing tips you have to know if you sew, you can start your project. Happy sewing!
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