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What Is A French Seam
Why And When To Use French Seam
In this tutorial, I used a bit thicker material, cotton twill, to make it really easy to see where the seams meet. I suggest lightweight cotton for your first try.
How To Sew A French Seam
1)You’ll start with wrong sides together. Not used to that? Don’t worry, it’s OK – you’ll see why.
2) So, with wrong sides together, stitch the two pieces using 3/8 inch (1cm) seam allowance. Then trim to 1/8. (I do not open the seam, so I can trim it using a rotary cutter. Easy&lazy way to trim, I love it!)
3) Unfold fabric with right sides facing up. Press the seam allowance to one side. To be honest, I first press to one side and then to the other side, to make the seam easier to further manipulate it.
4) Fold the fabric so that right sides are facing. The raw seam is hidden. Press along the seam.
6) Press seam flat and then unfold it and press again, to one side. Done!
Where’s the Catch with French Seams?
Split the seam allowance in two.
Let me make it easy for you. Two most common cases:
5/8″ SA = 3/8″ (trim!) + 2/8″
For a 5/8″ seam allowance, sew the first line of stitches 3/8″ from raw edge, then trim, then sew the 2/8 to finish off (this is what the above tutorial shows).
1/2″ SA = 1/4″ (trim!) + 1/4″
On a pattern with a 1/2″ seam allowance, say for a zipper case, you can first stitch a 1/4″ seam, trim it down and then stitch the 1/4″. (1/2″=1.3cm, 1/4″=0.6cm)
MAKE IT FASTER: NO-TRIMMING TIP
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