Here are the basic sewing terms explained - sewing terminology short and easy to understand!
Welcome to the exciting world of sewing! If you're just starting out, don't get discouraged by all the different sewing terms and jargon - we've got you covered. But first, this: ↓↓
This sewing glossary is the perfect place to explain the sewing terminology simply and quickly. We'll help you understand everything from basic stitches to advanced techniques.
It is a small row of zig-zag stitches to reinforce the seam. They are used on patch pockets sewn on bags and shirts, on a jeans fly, and on belt loops.
Basting means sewing with long loose stitches, to temporarily join fabric pieces together. You can baste by hand or use a sewing machine.
Bias or cut on bias means that a piece of fabric is cut at 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads. Every piece of woven fabric has two biases, perpendicular to each other. Here's how to cut fabric on bias. Non-woven fabrics such as felt or interfacing do not have a bias.
Bias tape is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on the bias, meaning at 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads. This kind of fabric cutting makes it stretchier. Here's how to sew bias tape on curves.
A casing is a fabric tunnel through which elastic or a drawstring can be threaded to pull in or draw up the fabric. See here how to thread a casing on a drawstring bag.
Cord is twisted fibre, usually intermediate between rope and string. To make it yourself, check out this tutorial.
Cut on bias means that a piece of fabric is cut at 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads. Every piece of woven fabric has two biases, perpendicular to each other. Non-woven fabrics such as felt or interfacing do not have a bias.
A dart is simply a folded wedge of fabric you stitch to help you shape an item, be a piece of garment or a bag. There are many types of darts, the simplest being a one-point straight dart. Check out this tutorial to see how to make darts when sewing to see how they are used.
A dressmaker is a person who makes custom clothing for women.
Embroidery is a form of decorative needlework, designing pictures and letters using embroidery stitches like the simple running stitch, whip stitch, and many other stitches.
The face of a fabric piece is its front side, same as the right side.
A facing is fabric used to finish the raw edges of a garment such as at neckline and armhole, or a welt zipper pocket.
Gathering is a technique for shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece.
The lengthwise and crosswise grain of fabric refer to the directions parallel to the warp and weft, respectively.
A gusset is a piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add breadth. This free messenger pattern as well as this sling bag both have a gusset, though their construction differs a lot.
A hem is the edge of cloth folded back and sewn. See how to make a double hem here - it leaves no raw edges and is super useful.
Interfacing is a material added to the back side of a fabric to add stability and/or body to the finished item. There are many different types of interfacing, fusible and non-fusible. See this guide on fusible interfacing for beginners.
Jersey is a stretchy knitted fabric. This Beginner's Guide on sewing knits is perfect if you're new to jersey.
Lining is an inner layer of fabric that provides a neat finish, conceals seam allowances and interfacing.
Needlework is anything that uses a needle for construction.
Notions are any small tools or accessories used in sewing. See The Tools And notions I Frequently Use.
The top layer of fabric when a different fabric is underneath. Lace will often be an overlay and have a lining under to prevent being seen through.
Patchwork is sewing together pieces of fabric and stitching them together into a larger design. Tons of forms and designs, also see quilting.
PDF sewing pattern or a digital sewing pattern is a digital file containing a template to sew an item: a bag, garment, etc. Usually, the sewing pattern will contain several pieces to assemble, as well as directions on assembly and finishing the individual pieces into a finished product. To see more, check out my sewing pattern shop here.
Piping is a type of trim consisting of a strip of folded fabric inserted into a seam for decorative or construction purposes, often seen on pillows and bags.
A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place.
Quilt is two layers of cloth sewn together, with a layer of batting in between. A whole cloth quilt is the easiest, and looks lovely when made with a fabric panel. Another type of quilt is a patchwork quilt.
Quilting is a method of sewing or tying two layers of cloth with a layer of insulating batting in between. I particularly love a quilting as you go technique - see here what is quilt as you go. What you get is a quilt. Also see patchwork.
The 'front' of a piece of fabric having a distinct front and backside. Same as face of fabric.
RST means 'right-sides-together'. Usually, when sewing two pieces of fabric together, you turn the pieces so the right sides are facing each other, and stitch.
A running stitch is an embroidery stitch that passes in and out of the fabric in a straight line. This stitch can be used to baste fabric pieces together.
Seam is the basic construction technique for joining two pieces of fabric in sewing. Two pieces of fabric are held together by thread. Here's how to sew a basic seam on a sewing machine.
A seam allowance is the area between the edge of fabric and the stitching line on two pieces of fabric that are stitched together. Seam allowances have a wide range, the standard one for quilting is ¼ inch, I often use the ⅜ inch (1 cm) seam allowance, and ½ inch is also common in bag making. ⅝ inch seam allowance is standard in sewing apparel.
A seam ripper is a small tool used for unpicking or cutting stitches. So useful!
A seamstress is a person who sews and finishes garments.
The selvage stands for the self-finished edges of fabric. In woven fabric, selvages are the edges that run parallel to the warp.
Sewing is the best craft ever - for me! Less subjective, it's an ancient craft where you stitch cloth or other materials using needle and thread. See all AppleGreen cottage sewing projects here.
A stitch is a single turn or loop of the thread or yarn in sewing. All stitches made with a sewing needle with an "eye" or hole are variations on seven basic stitches: running stitch, backstitch, overcast stitch, cross stitch, buttonhole or blanket stitch, chain stitch, and knot stitch. Sewing machine stitches are classified by their structure: chain stitch, made with one thread; lockstitch, made with two threads; and overlock, made with one to four threads.
Also see this invisible stitch tutorial. (good to know!)
A tailor is a person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally, especially suits and men's clothing.
Thread is a fine type of yarn. See here how to thread a sewing machine.
A thimble is a protective shield made of metal, plastic or leather you can wear on the finger or thumb when sewing.
Twill tape is a flat twill-woven ribbon. Heavier, thicker twill is amazing for bagmaking when you don't want to use much interfacing.
The "back" of a piece of fabric that has a distinct front and back. Also see face.
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers. It can be made from any number of synthetic or natural fibers.
A digital sewing pattern is simply a pdf file you can download from a webpage to your computer. Usually, you can open it in a simple PDF reader and print at home.
You'll need a computer to download your PDF sewing pattern, then the printer to print it on paper, then proceed as with the traditional paper patterns: cut the fabric using the printed pattern and sew the item.
Appliqué: A decorative technique where pieces of fabric are sewn onto a larger piece to create patterns or pictures.
Backstitch: A strong stitch made by sewing backward and forward along the seam to secure the stitches.
Ballpoint Needle: A type of sewing machine needle with a rounded tip, used for sewing knits or stretchy fabrics.
Binding: A strip of fabric used to cover or encase the raw edges of a garment or sewing project, commonly used around necklines or hems.
Blind Hem: A hem where the stitching is not visible from the right side of the fabric, often sewn by hand or with a special machine stitch.
Bobbin: A small spool that holds the lower thread in a sewing machine.
Box Pleat: A pleat consisting of two folds facing opposite directions, creating a box-like structure.
Clip: A technique where small cuts are made into the seam allowance of curved seams to help the fabric lie flat when turned right-side out.
Crossgrain: The direction perpendicular to the selvage edge of the fabric, running across the width.
Darning: A technique used to repair holes or worn areas in fabric by hand or machine using closely spaced stitches.
Double Needle: A sewing machine needle with two points, allowing for parallel stitching rows, commonly used in hemming knits.
Ease: The extra room added to a pattern to allow for movement and comfort in a garment.
Edge Stitch: A stitch sewn very close to the edge of a fabric, usually for finishing or decorative purposes.
Finger Pressing: A quick method of pressing a seam with your fingers instead of an iron, often used during construction. Very useful when sewing with vinyl and faux leather.
Flat Felled Seam: A durable seam that encases the raw edges, commonly found in denim and sturdy fabrics. See here how to sew a flat felled seam.
Fray Check: A liquid seam sealant applied to the edges of fabric to prevent fraying.
French Seam: A seam that encloses the raw edges of fabric inside a neatly finished seam, giving a clean look inside the garment. See here how to sew a French seam.
Gathering Foot: A sewing machine foot designed to create evenly spaced gathers in fabric.
Grade Seam: Trimming seam allowances to different widths to reduce bulk, often used in thick fabrics.
Hong Kong Finish: A method of binding raw seams with bias tape to create a neat finish, often used in unlined jackets.
Inseam: The seam running down the inside leg of pants from the crotch to the hem.
Ladder Stitch: A hand sewing stitch used to invisibly close seams, often used in finishing stuffed items. This is why it's also called invisible stitch. See my tutorial for sewing a ladder stitch.
Notch: Small triangles or slits cut into the seam allowance to indicate where pieces should be matched up during construction. Also, a common way to reduce bulk on the seam allowance. In bagmaking, it's a must!
Overcast Stitch: A hand stitch that loops around the edge of fabric to prevent fraying, often used in finishing seams.
Patch Pocket: A pocket made by attaching a separate piece of fabric on top of the garment's fabric. Here's a patch pocket tutorial.
Pin Tuck: A narrow fold or pleat sewn into fabric, often used for decorative purposes on garments like blouses or shirts.
Presser Foot: The part of a sewing machine that holds the fabric in place as you sew.
Slip Stitch: A nearly invisible hand stitch used for hemming or attaching linings.
Stay Stitch: A line of stitches sewn on or near the seam line to stabilize fabric and prevent stretching, typically on curves.
Topstitch: A decorative stitch sewn on the top side of a garment, often used along edges or seams for extra strength or decoration.
Save this list to reference when you need it:
And here's my huge zipper sewing guide - use it and never fear zippers again!
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