How To Sew A Pocket On Any Bag

See how to sew a pocket on the outside of a bag or on lining, using this easy sewing tutorial. It’s a zipper pocket I used in my latest Sophia Fold-Over Clutch And Bag pattern and it is so practical! Grab the free PDF template here in the tutorial you can use to make it even easier!

Pockets on bags are a must for me, and definitely an improvement. You can turn a simple piece like this tote bag pattern into a much more useful market bag that will securely hold your small wallet. By the way, here is a practical small wallet pattern you might want to sew too!

You’ll find a lot of bag sewing tutorials here at AppleGreen cottage, as well as a different pocket tutorial. And here I’m showing you how to sew a pocket and add it to the bag’s outer or lining, even if your bag pattern does not include this option.

IMPORTANT! There’s one rule to observe though: You will need to install the pocket before stitching the bag together. So make sure to add the pocket BEFORE you have assembled any bag pieces together.

You can make an outer pocket, like this one on my Sophia Bag:

Sew An Outer Or Interior Pocket On Any bag

You can use this pocket on any other bag pattern you might already have, too. Today’s tutorial is merely an additional step in your bagmaking, and you’ll end up with a better bag with a pro-looking zipper pocket!

This tutorial will show you how to sew a pocket on the outside of a bag or on lining – your choice!

Also, a note on interfacing. Most probably, your bag pattern will call for some type of interfacing to be added to the main bag pieces. Please note that the interfacing should already be applied to the bag pieces before you add the pocket.

You’ll need:

• your bag pieces depending on the bag pattern you are using
• a zipper – I used a standard nylon-coil 7″ (18cm) zipper here.
• zipper pocket lining piece – see the template image in this tutorial – the free template (available in the subscriber-resource library for all newsletter subscribers – join the free newsletter here!)

Finished Size of the pocket

The template is for a finished pocket with a zipper opening of 6″, and pocket lining height 6″  and pocket lining width 7 3/4″. It can be adjusted to fit any other size. This is a slightly different dimension than the one I used in the Sophia Bag pattern, for your convenience (a bit wider).

Free PDF Template 

The free pocket sewing template is available in the subscriber-resource library for all newsletter subscribers – join the free newsletter here to get the password emailed once you subscribe – OR enter the Freebie LIBRARY here with the password that’s provided in every newsletter)

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How To Sew A Pocket Tutorial

This tutorial will show you how to sew a pocket on the outside of a bag or on lining – your choice!

1) First, draw the rectangle (blue stitching line) and the inner cutting lines on the BACK side of the pocket lining piece: copy them from the free template that’s available to all my newsletter subscribers with an exclusive password you get once you’ve confirmed your subscription (new subscribers: join here, existing subscribers: enter Freebie Library here with your password)

And here’s an alternative, if you don’t want to use the template:

Mark the zip opening on the wrong side of the zipper pocket lining piece:

• Measured from the TOP EDGE of ‘Front ZIP Pocket’ draw a horizontal line at 1″ (2.5 cm) from the upper edge. This will be the top line.
• Draw another horizontal line below the first one at a distance of 1/2″ (1.3 cm)
• Draw vertical lines on each side, making sure the rectangle stays centered on the pocket lining piece.
• Dimensions of the rectangle in the image: 1/2″ (1.3 cm) tall and 6″ (15.2 cm) wide.

You can either use tracing paper, or a shortcut:

The easiest way for me to do it is just placing the paper print (PDF pocket template) on top of the pocket lining fabric and pierce through the paper on 4 edges of the rectangle, using a sharpened pencil or fabric marker. It leaves 4 tiny marks, enough to draw the lines.

Note: NO CUTTING YET!

Position the pocket

2)  Then place the zipper pocket lining on the ‘bag MAIN piece’. This will be the main panel of the bag where you want your pocket. Here, I placed it on the outer side of a bag (calling it ‘bag MAIN piece’ from now on)

With the right sides together, match the bag MAIN piece and zipper pocket lining, shifting the pocket lining down so the rectangle will be exactly where you want the pocket to open on the bag:

NOTE: Make sure to place the bag MAIN piece and the zipper pocket lining piece right sides together.

How To Sew A Pocket Lining To The bag

3) Now, shorten the stitch length to approximately 15 stitches per inch (or 1.7 mm in metric). Stitch exactly on the stitching line of the rectangle you just drew.

4)Cut along the inner line until the triangle. Then also cut into the corners into the V-shape, until very close to the stitching line. Make sure not to snip into any stitches!

5) Then pull the pocket fabric through the window to the other side, so you get the pieces to be wrong-sides-together.

6) When you have the lining on the other side, you’ll have to pull on the lining and finger-press the seam to get that lining part hardly visible from the front side.

Press. And you’re already through half of the how to sew a pocket tutorial!

Attach Zipper To the Pocket

7) Now flip the piece so the back side, i.e. the zipper lining is on top. We’ll work from here: place the zipper onto the opening. Zipper teeth should face the outer side (i.e. down). Center the zipper. Zipper pull should be in the opening, visible from the front side.
Metallic stoppers should not be visible from the front, nor should be in the way when stitching.

Pin in place or tape the zipper into the opening (Wonder Tape works great!)

8) Keeping the zipper in place, edgestitch around the opening. Cut off any excess zipper tape.

Stitch the Pocket Lining

9) Then fold the pocket lining upwards and pin in place.

10) Stitch around the 3 sides, only catching the pocket lining fabric (here blue).

Make sure you never catch any fabric other than this pocket lining. To just stitch the pocket lining, fold the bag MAIN piece out of the way.

Fold the sewn pocket out of the way, so you’ll be able to continue with finalizing the bag – this might mean inserting a closure like magnetic snaps, or adding darts to the piece, or sewing the top zipper on (if any) – follow the pattern directions.

This is another of my bags with this type of zipper pocket, the Enya Wallet purse pattern– in addition to a zipper pocket like this, it also has slip pockets nested into a credit-card and phone-pocket set:

These zipper pockets are so practical, and also easy to sew with a little practice!

Save this tutorial for later so you can make pockets on all your bags:

Damjana

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Or …check out my popular patterns – the SOPHIA Fold-Over Clutch would be a great match to the patterns above – Check it out here:

It already includes this type of pocket, and you’ll be guided through the entire sewing process. Happy sewing!