Santa Bag tutorial – Sew the prettiest Santa bag you’ve ever seen! This tutorial will show you how to make a reusable, unique and cute Santa sack to put your Christmas gifts in. Scroll down for the Santa bag tutorial, and for tips and additional ideas that will help you make your Christmas entirely handmade, and personal.
If you are looking for more holiday projects, here are a few you’ll love:
- 40+ Free Christmas Tree Skirts To Sew
- 35+ Best DIY Christmas Decorations – FREE
- 15+ Cutest Diy Christmas Gifts For Kids
- 15 Free Diy Christmas Gnome Tutorials
And this bag has a little secret: SMART construction. No threading the cord through the casing after you’re finished sewing!
Get the tutorial below and, if you want to make it even easier without measuring and seam tapering (and add 2 more sizes), get the pattern for Santa bag here in my shop (link)
|Get Pattern HERE.|
Of course you can also just follow this tutorial. Enjoy!
Santa Bag Tutorial
First, for those of you who like video tutorials, I’ve made a video slide-show to get the feeling of what the sewing process will be like. (Spoiler alert: easy!)
- 1 yard of fabric. (home décor weight fabric and/or quilting cotton)
- Batting – half yard
- mid-weight fusible interfacing – since I used quilting cotton for the outside, I added an additional layer of woven interfacing. I suggest you do the same if you want a stable bag.
- 2 pieces of cotton cord (recommended thickness 5/32″): 2 pieces 20″
- A tiny piece of fusible interfacing (1″ by 2″) to stabilize eyelets
- 2 sets of eyelets size 5/16″ (size depends on cord thickness)
- Sewing machine, iron, scissors, pins, ruler, thread
- decoration: pompom trim (24 1/2″)
- the pattern in 3 sizes (available HERE) or cutting instructions (see below)
From main fabric and batting, cut:
- BODY OUTER – 24 1/2″ x 13″ (width x height)
- BATTING PIECE FOR BODY OUTER – same width as Body Outer, but a third less height (here I only needed 8 inch height)
- OUTER BOTTOM CIRCLE – 8 1/2″ in diameter, cut one from main fabric and one from batting
From lining, cut:
- BODY LINING – 24 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ (width x height)
- LINING BOTTOM CIRCLE – cut it a bit smaller than outer circle to prevent bulk (I cut it 7 3/4″ in diameter)
- HANGING TAB 3″ x 2″ or longer, if you want a larger tab for hanging
- DRAWSTRING CASING: I cut 24 1/2″ x 2″
NOTE – Seam Tapering And Quarter Marking
The pattern already includes these modifications, so you can SKIP this if you’ve got the pattern.
For the above reason, you’ll need to taper the seams on lining to make it a bit narrower than the outer layer. It might take a little more time to do so, but you’re safe: I’ll show you how to do that in the tutorial below. See step 13 in the tutorial below.
To mark the quarters on your pieces see step 14 of the tutorial below. (the pattern pieces already include markings)
1) You will need to baste batting onto the back side of 2 fabric pieces:
– the rectangular Body Outer (see how basting only covers the lower two-thirds of the piece?)
– and the Outer Bottom Circle.
5) Now you’ll place this drawstring casing on the main body piece:
- Place Body Outer piece right-side up – with the batting facing down, and located at the bottom edge.
- Then place the drawstring casing on it, also right-side up, I placed mine approx. 2 inch away from the top edge of the Body Outer piece. The drawstring case is NOT on batting.
- Now the SMART part! Guide your 2 cords through the eyelet openings and baste one side of each cord to the side edge, covering it by the drawstring strip, like this:
6) To secure the ends of the cord, you can stitch back and forth a few times over the ends.
8) Add decorative pompom trim at a distance of 1 inch from the top unfinished edge.
9) Make the hanging tab:
- Place your 3 by 2-inch piece wrong-side-up.
- Fold in half lengthwise. Press, then open again.
- Fold the upper edge to the center crease and do the same with the lower edge.
- Fold again along the original center and press.
- Then topstitch along the long edges.
The image above has different colors (I made a white tab but it’s not much to see)
The right side of outer fabric will fold onto itself, and lining will fold onto itself.
12) Now’s the time to add the hanging tab you made before:
- Fold the tab in half.
- Slide it between the layers into the top part of Body Outer piece. For me, the best place is just above the drawstring casing.
- The LOOP should face inwards.
- Pin in place to prevent moving.
(Pattern pieces already include this modification:)
You’ll need to TAPER THE SEAM ALLOWANCES on BODY LINING towards the LINING BOTTOM. It means a gradual increase of the seam allowance from 1/2″ in the spot where it meets the outer fabric, to 1 1/4″ at the bottom of the lining.
In short, while the size of lining on points where it meets the outer fabric needs to be the same as outer, you’ll want to taper the seam allowances (i.e. make the lining narrower) towards the bottom of the lining.
What you have now is a tube.
14) Add quarter marks to proceed easier:
- on both ends of the tube, for ease of joining to their circular pieces: Divide each of the tube openings in even quarters and mark by cutting a notch into the seam allowance.
- Also, add quarter marks to both circular pieces: Fold the circular piece into a half and then a quarter to cut tiny notches/slits.
16) Also, cut additional notches into the ‘tube’ part of the project, for ease. A series of snips will ease the pieces together.
18) Turn right-side-out through the hole in lining. Then stitch the opening closed.
19) Tuck the lining into the outer part, and topstitch along the top, using a 1/8″ seam allowance for a neater finish. Done! Enjoy your handmade Christmas!
I cut a few stars from white felt and attached them on the bag (using cookie cutters as template, so easy!)
You can go a step further and personalize it by adding applique, a good idea would be adding the initial letter of the child’s name. (See my simple tutorial on basic applique. It has a few tips that will help you if you are new to applique.)
If you’re not so much into baskets and sacks, but prefer totes as gift packaging, check out my other Christmas gift bag pattern, this one:
I cannot decide on which one I like more. So I’m making both. 🙂