Learn how to sew a welt zipper pocket on any bag (the one you’ll want to use everywhere from now on!) Adding a zipper pocket makes your bag way more useful, and any bag pattern can be modified to fit an additional one. I’m showing you how I added a welt zipper pocket to the TEYA Crossbody Bag, but I think anyone else would love to use this how-to, too. Take a look into this beginner friendly sewing tutorial and learn in minutes how to add a welt zipper pocket either to the outside or to the inside of a bag.
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Welt Zipper Pocket
I’m showing you the part of bag sewing when you start making the welt zipper pocket. You usually sew the zipper pockets at the beginning of the projects, so your bag panels are still detached, not sewn together.
- the piece of the bag fabric where you want your pocket to be placed. (black cotton in the tutorial, it’s the main bag piece for outer back.)
- one piece for the pocket lining, twice the size of the finished pocket (here red cotton print; also see the template below)
- matching thread
- the usual: measuring tape, scissors, sewing machine
Welt Pocket Lining – TEMPLATE
This is the template for the welt pocket lining that should help you along the way. You can save it, or just bookmark this tutorial on your computer for later use. Or pin, off course!
How To Sew A Welt Zipper Pocket – TUTORIAL:
Horizontal position: the pocket lining centered on the outer.
Draw the zipper rectangle (stitching line) and the inner cutting lines: copy them from the template and adjust to your desired zippered opening size (horizontal adjustment)
As you see, the zipper opening will be half an inch ‘tall’ (vertical). Do not adjust this.
3) Just draw the zipper rectangle. NO CUTTING YET!
5) Cut along the inner line until the triangle. Then also cut into the corners into the V-shape, until very close to the stitching line. Make sure not to snip into any stitches!
- Place the zipper onto the opening. Zipper teeth should face the outer side. Center the zipper, and make sure no metallic parts (zipper stoppers) are in the way when stitching.
- Pin in place, or glue the zipper into the opening (Wonder Tape works great!)
10) Keeping the zipper in place, edgestitch around the opening.
11) I often sew twice around when making a heavy-duty bag, to make sure the zipper will hold all the wear and tear. You don’t have to; sewing over twice might make it hard to keep the stitching line neat.
12) Cut off any excess zipper tape. Then fold the pocket lining upwards and pin in place.
13) Stitch around the 3 sides, only catching the pocket lining fabric.
IMPORTANT: Make sure you never catch the outer fabric – here black. You just stitch the pocket lining (red cotton print here), fold the outer bag fabric out of the way.
For those wondering where this tutorial came from, I made it when sewing one of my own designs, the TEYA Crossbody Bag. I love it for its convenience and beginner-friendly sewing procedure. The pattern itself is marked as intermediate though, because it’s perfect for those who have already sewn a bag or two.
Then it’s best to choose a project to go with it. I’d recommend using it with the original TEYA Crossbody Bag pattern in my shop: